Iggy's Restaurant in Singapore

After reading a number of reviews beatifying Iggy's, it seemed like time to check the place out in its current form.  Cutting to the chase, the meal was pretty disappointing, with a couple of high points that were hardly spectacular, and a few decidedly bad low points.  Iggy's is by no means a bad restaurant.  In some respects, it is very good.  But it is not the best restaurant in Asia.  Probably not even the best in Singapore.

The restaurant itself is a nice space, with a bar and a few tables off to the side.  Wood abounds and the lighting is at a perfect level.  Too many places go too dim in a misguided attempt to create a romantic atmosphere.  I have to say that I find nothing romantic about squinting at the menu.  There was an odd and unsuccessful attempt to add some festive cheer by placing a strip of red paper with patterns cut into it on the tables, but that misstep aside, it is a comfortable, intimate space that lends itself to contemplation of innovative haute cuisine.

Service was generally decent, with a couple of errors.  I find that it really helps when the waiters or busboys try to stand on the correct side of the diner when placing cutlery, plates, glasses and such on the table.  This avoids the diner having a waiter's elbow in his or her face while the waiter stretches across to set down a glass.  It is a minor thing, but one that improves the experience.  In a restaurant like Iggy's, which purports to be the best restaurant in Singapore, and now Asia, and charges accordingly, this is definitely something to be considered.

Wine service was definitely off.  The selection is quite good, with an emphasis on Burgundies of both persuasions.  With the sommelier's assistance, I selected a decent bottle of 2000 Latricieres, which drank very well.  We started with a few glasses of an acceptable Riesling, and after a couple of courses, the wine steward returned with the bottle of red.  I looked at the label and nodded, and he took it away.  I assumed that at this point, he would decant it.  Alas, this was not to be.  When the time came to start in on the red, the bottle was brought to the table, still filled with the good stuff.  I had to request that they then decant the wine before serving.  Considering that Iggy's is supposedly owned and run by an ex-sommelier, I do not see why something as simple as this could happen.  Now, the wine did not absolutely need more air, it drank quite nicely, but decanting also removes sediment, besides the function of aerating the liquid.  In addition, pouring from a lovely crystal decanter is just more pleasant-looking.

One last minor, personal peeve.  When pouring from the requested decanter, the waiter shook the decanter at the end of each pour to get the lingering drop to fall into the glass.  I understand that he was trying to get all the wine in, but it just bugs me.  Makes me feel cheap for trying to squeeze every drop out of the bottle, and feeling cheap is the last thing you want in an expensive restaurant.  Just wipe off the lip after each pour.  No one will fault you for it, and it will not be an issue at all.

On to the food.  That is the ultimate measure of a restaurant, after all.  Photos courtesy of one of my dining companions.

Amuse-Bouche.  The amuse was uni in a yuzu jelly, with cauliflower puree.  This was not bad, but hardly the most innovative combination of flavours around.  Restaurants in New York have been doing this for years.  Still, the flavours were good, and there was success in ensuring the cauliflower puree was not bitter, as is the case in many vegetable purees, which would have ruined the whole thing.

Ikura.  The first dish was ikura atop egg royale, with orange jelly and orange zest.  This was fine.  Nothing to shout about.  The saltiness of the ikura was drowned out by the sweetness of the orange jelly.

Jabugo Iberico Bellotta.  Iberico ham atop grilled watermelon, with tomato concasse and micro herbs.  This was quite a disaster.  Grilling the watermelon left it at Singapore room temperature and caused the texture of the flesh to soften.  The overall effect was, to quote one of my dining companions, "warm and slimy".  It is pretty important that those three words are never spoken in a restaurant.  The intended effect of the classic pairing was also lost, since the watermelon was not sweet enough to play off against the tart saltiness of the ham.  Terrible.

Foie Gras.  The classic preparation of pan-fried foie gras on toast was executed well.  The slightly more modern foie gras creme brulee was fine.  It might just be me, but I've never been thrilled with foie gras creme brulees.  Seems like a bit of a waste of the richness of the liver.  But overall, an enjoyable dish.

Spanner Crab.  A spanner crab meat souffle and rocket sprouts, with a shellfish bisque poured at the table.  Quite bland.  The souffle was ok, but lacking in the rich flavour that crab brings, whereas the broth was just very bland.  Could do with a few lessons from Tru on how to make a hot shellfish dish in broth.

Cappellini.  A choice was offered here of whether to go with a cappellini with zucchini, smoked mullet roe and shallot, or cappellini with poultry jus and 2g (stated clearly) of Alba white truffle.  The entire table went with the white truffles.  A good choice.  These are probably among the last of the season, but the scent was at full bore.  A properly execution of a classic dish.  Is it really necessary to state clearly the amount of truffles given on the menu though?  Again, this makes me feel cheap, and cheap is not a good feeling when I'm paying S$280 for dinner (food only, pre-tax, pre-tip).

Halibut.  Pan-roasted halibut fillet, red curry-scented pumpkin puree, green mango salsa, roasted shallot oil, glacier lily and balsamic reduction.  Poor cooking here.  My piece of fish was overcooked on one edge, and correctly cooked on the other.  Another diner's fish was just completely overcooked throughout.  I do not think it is too much to ask for good execution of basic technique, when there were only 11 diners in the joint.

Challand Duck.  Spicy herb-crusted Challand duck breast, braised red cabbage, Puy lentils, baby turnip.  Excellent.  The duck itself was nicely cooked, and the spices used on the skin provided a beautiful contrast to the standard expectations without being overpowering.  The spices gave the meat a flavour reminiscent of curry.  I am unable to provide a more informative descriptions here, but it was delicious.  Not so sure about the turnip, but a minor quibble on a very good dish.

Pre-Dessert.  I cannot recall what was in it exactly, but the berries were extremely bitter.  Not a good palate cleanser, or a good anything, actually.

Chocolate.  Christmas spiced chocolate dome, home-made gingerbread ice cream.  This was quite good, if a bit rich.  The ice cream was pretty heavy, coming off sticky and leaden.  Chocolate was good.  The presentation, well, I refrained from commenting at the dinner table, but brown streaks seem not so good on a plate.

Iggy's Lemon Tart was a surprise.  These small mouthfuls literally popped and crackled in the mouth, like those sweets in my youth.  I rather liked that it wakes the diner up at the end of a long meal, but it was very very crackly.

Overall, the food was not of the standard I had been lead to expect by the glowing reviews online.  I admire the concept of a tiny restaurant serving interesting food, but it is important that the concepts are checked to actually work in a dish, and that the technique in the kitchen is up to snuff.  Otherwise, the prices are exorbitant.  The cost comes close to the French Laundry, and I assure you that the quality does not.

I have eaten at some of the best restaurants in the world, and this is not one worthy of the upper echelons of dining in major food destinations worldwide.  If this is the best that Singapore has to offer in terms of European food, then diners are better off sticking with Asian cuisines.  Singapore has some great Chinese and Indian restaurants that offer fine-dining experiences at a fraction of the price of Iggy's, and much more pleasure.  To summarise, Iggy's is a mildly innovative restaurant without the foundational ability in the kitchen to back up its claims.