Sunday, May 07, 2006

A brief note

Since I've been to a number of restaurants in Chicago in the last couple of years, I thought I'd offer a very brief note on some of the places that have stood out.

North Pond is a Lincoln Park restuarant with a fantastic setting. It's in a park, right on a pond. You actually have to walk a little way into the park before you even see it. The pond is pretty enough, with reflections of nearby buildings in the mostly still water, ducks gliding about, and all the greenery, or snowy goodness, of the park itself. The food is pretty good, though not spectacular. Quite standard seasonal American fare, though well-executed. I recall a poached duck's egg over a veal sweetbread roulade as being quite outstanding. Not too expensive either. Entrees run about $30, as I recall, and the wine list is quite reasonable. My waitress had a disconcerting habit of leaning over me a bit close, but was friendly and attentive enough. The room is comfortable, decorated in what I have heard described as an Arts and Crafts style. Overall, I like the place. Lovely setting, and generally a well-executed restaurant.

NoMI is another restaurant with a great setting. I would probably venture to say that it has the single best location for a restaurant in Chicago, in the Park Hyatt, eye-level with the spire of the Water Tower. The room is elegant in a nondescript way. Well, pretty much what you might expect from a restaurant in an expensive hotel. Some wood, white tablecloths, stuff like that. Generally a very nice setting. I would say that it makes a lot of sense for power lunching or impressing a date. The food is not bad, but I wouldn't go back for the food at those prices. I would go back for the room and the view at those prices. The service can be a little lacking though. The first time I was there, my party ordered the tasting menu with wine pairings. When the first wine was poured, the waiter didn't bother to tell us what the wine was. I commented on this to another member of my party, and the waiter promptly returned with the bottle and a description. I think it's reasonable to expect to be told what is being poured for you without having to ask.

Spring is great. The service is pretty good, and they make stiff manhattans. The food is quite impressive, at reasonable prices. To my recollection, entrees ran in the high teens to low twenties. The first time I was there, there was a foie gras appetiser, with some cream mixed into the foie gras, paired with honey and brioche. Simple, but quite fantastic. They called it their version of peanut butter and jelly. Skate was pretty great too.

I love Heat. Loads of flopping-fresh sashimi and sushi, and sake pairings. What's not to love? The cooked items were not as spectacular, but solid nonetheless. They even came up with a spicy tuna handroll that I adored, which is surprising considering that I've despised every other version I've tried. Expensive though. $45 to $100 for a fixed price menu, plus $50 for the booze.

one sixtyblue is one of my favourite places in the city. It turns out consistently excellent food, at prices that aren't low, but could certainly be higher. The room is dimly lit, service is attentive without being overbearing, and they have a bar that I would actually be happy to spend time in. Plus they have a warm cheese course that can be really fantastic. They seem to have a habit of bringing it out cold though. The pot is hot, but the cheese is cold or at room temperature. I don't really understand why this is. Perhaps the cheese was in the fridge beforehand? I've heard about this, and experienced it firsthand, several times. Other than that, it's a great restaurant that should be easier to find.

Everest is the perfect special-occasion restaurant. The room is elegant, but not sparkling new. Rather it has a nicely used feel to it. You have sculptures on the tables, art on the walls, and a view of the city from the 40th floor. I've heard lukewarm reviews of the service, but I've only had perfect experiences with it. Food is utterly fantastic, incorporating some ingredients that you wouldn't normally find on a four-star plate, but working beautifully in chef Joho's hands. Wines are among the best selections that I have had in the city. Not a cheap night out, but totally worth it.

Les Nomades is just great. The crowd is a lot older than most places, but the staff is ok with younger patrons. One of the waiters told me that I was the first person he had asked for ID from since he had started work there. The food is pretty classic French, and very very well-executed. I get mildly annoyed that I sometimes get forced to pick a vegetable course, but no big deal. Rack of lamb was easily the best preparation I've ever had, and the souffles were quite incredible. Service can be a bit too meticulous. I've had my cutlery nudged back into place after I move it slightly with my sleeve. Again, not a cheap evening, but worth it.

Ok, so those were some of the more memorable restaurants I've been to in Chicago. There are more, but I don't want to type anymore.